Lost Coast Trail Online: The King Range Wilderness

I'm Moving to a New Blog!

2011-04-18T21:53:00.000-07:00

The new blog site for the Wilderness Ranger of the Lost Coast is Lostcoastranger.blogspot.com starting today, April 18 2011. The reason I have created a new blog is because the last one (the one you are currently at) was created by the previous Wilderness Ranger, DC. A mishap with passwords left me with only the ability to make posts and unable to change anything else on the site. After much failed attempts to get the password situation sorted out I decided to just create a new but similar site. I encourage you to check out this blog if you have not been here before. It is now an archive full of tons of useful information about the Lost Coast and the King Range.

Come visit me and read about my adventures on the Lost Coast in the King Range National Conservation Area: Lostcoastranger.blogspot.com

Your Wilderness Ranger,

Paul

Campfires, Creeks and Plenty of Pictures

2011-04-04T14:21:00.000-07:00

I was out on the Lost Coast Trail March 29-31 last week and the weather was great. Here is what I have to report back to you concerning campfires, creek crossings and snow: We are not currently in campfire restrictions in the King Range. However, if you do decide to have a campfire there are some very important things you should know. Leave No Trace, the center for outdoor ethics, states that, “The most important consideration to be made when deciding to use a fire is the potential damage to the backcountry.” PLEASE use existing fire rings to reduce impacts to the land and setting. It can be unpleasant for other campers to have 2 or 3 campfire rings scattered about their camping area. And, of course, having less campfire rings would reduce the area of environmental impact. If you must build a campfire ring make it small and do not dig into the ground. I found this unsightly scene at Sea Lion Gulch:

This is 100% unnecessary. How long will it take for the land to recover from this? You can also see that there is some trash left behind which brings me to my second point.

PLEASE only burn things that burn completely in one sitting (paper and wood) and pack out all other trash. Many packages, such as instant backcountry food like Mountain House, are lined with foil. These do not burn well and leave behind many little (or large) pieces of foil.

Aluminum cans don’t burn well either and will remain in the campfire for a very, very long time. If you packed in a full can I would imagine that an empty one would be much easier to pack out considering it would be a fraction of the weight and can be crushed down.

Many of us that enjoy the outdoors may not be well versed in low impact camping techniques and Leave No Trace (LNT). So, I ask you to consider what impacts your actions have on the land and on the experience of others. If you thinnk your action might cause harm then don't do it. Remember, you are not the only one out there. There were people before you and there will be people after you. If you have a few extra moments visit http://www.lnt.org/programs/principles.php for an overview of the 7 LNT principles. This is a great website and is very informative.

To wrap up my spiel on campfires, always put out your fires using the soak and stir method. Soak with lots of water and stir with a stick, or other utensil of your choice, to ensure that it is completely out. You should be able to safely touch the remains of your fire with the backside of your hand once it is out (please don’t burn yourself doing this though). If you can’t do this you should continue soaking and stirring. Sand is not an efficient or reliable way to put out campfires for 2 reasons. First, it doesn’t completely put out the fire and it remains hot under the sand. When or if the wind comes up it can blow the sand off and start the fire back again. Second, it fills up the campfire ring creating a need for people to create new rings.

Next, the moment you've all been waiting for, the news on creek crossings: All creeks were passable and were about knee high at the deepest. At the deeper creeks, such as Big Flat Creek, it can help to cross towards the mouth where the creek tends to widen and became shallower. Of course, you will need to watch and see what the waves are doing if you cross closer to the ocean.

This is Big Flat Creek a considerable distance up from the mouth which was swift and deep.

A bit down stream closer to the mouth was safer to cross but still deep in many spots.

Randall Creek was about knee deep.

Cooskie Creek was also knee deep

Lastly, note that you may run into snow during the next few weeks on the upland trails. Here is King Peak from Big Flat on March 30.

If you have any questions don't hesitate to drop me a line

Your Wilderness Ranger,

Paul

Lostcoastranger@gmail.com

A Jaunt Up The Beach: Trail Conditions Continued

2011-03-24T12:02:00.000-07:00

Tuesday and Wednesday (March 22 and 23) I went up the beach to Shipman Creek from Black Sands Beach. Tuesday brought me surprisingly good weather and I was able to reach my camping area and set up my tent before the rain hit. Just as predicted it dumped on me all night and the wind nearly blew my tent away (or so it seemed).

You can see in the picture that Shipman Creek is running pretty high and swift (taken Wednesday morning). It is hard to tell but this is at least mid thigh in most sections and finding a safe place to cross will be increasingly difficult as the rains continue the next several days. Also, consider this:

This Afternoon: Showers and possibly a thunderstorm. Some of the storms could produce small hail. High near 53. South southwest wind around 16 mph, with gusts as high as 21 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. Wind waves 7 to 9 ft...subsiding to 3 to 5 ft in the afternoon. W swell 8 to 10 ft at 12 seconds

Tonight: Rain and possibly a thunderstorm. Some of the storms could produce small hail and heavy rain. Low around 45. South southwest wind between 9 and 17 mph, with gusts as high as 22 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%. Wind waves 2 to 4 ft. W swell 15 to 17 ft at 14 seconds.

Friday: Showers likely. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 53. Southwest wind between 8 and 11 mph. Chance of precipitation is 60%. Wind waves 1 to 3 ft. W swell 14 to 16 ft at 14 seconds

Friday Night: Rain. The rain could be heavy at times. Low around 47. South wind between 15 and 20 mph, with gusts as high as 24 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%. Wind waves 3 to 5 ft. W swell 11 f

Saturday: Rain. High near 56. Southwest wind around 11 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%.Wind waves 1 to 3 ft. W swell 12 to 14 ft.

As mentioned in the previous post, you may want to reconsider any plans you made to visit the lost coast this week. Unless, or course, you enjoy being wet and cold for multiple days at a time in hazardous weather. In which case, read my last few posts about saftey considerations when hiking the LCT during winter. Hopefully Conditions will improve in the next week or two.

Your Wilderness Ranger,

Paul

Heavy Rain Expected This Week

2011-03-22T09:09:00.000-07:00

The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) has issued a hazardous weather outlook for Northwest California. Heavy rain is expected tonight (March 22) through Sunday (March 27):

...RIVERS AND CREEKS TO RISE WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY...

RAIN WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY WITH RAPID RISES ON THE MAIN STEM RIVERS AND THE POTENTIAL FOR FLOODING ON CREEKS AND SMALL RIVERS TWO STRONG SYSTEMS WILL BRING RAIN AND SNOW TO NORTHWESTCALIFORNIA. THE FIRST SYSTEM IS EXPECTED TO MOVE INTOMENDOCINO COUNTY LATE THIS AFTERNOON AND SPREAD NORTH TONIGHT.THE NEXT SYSTEM WILL FOLLOW QUICKLY...MOVING INTO THE REGIONWEDNESDAY NIGHT AND THURSDAY. THE SNOW LEVEL WITH BOTH SYSTEMS WILL BE NEAR 3000 FEET.

If you were planning a backpacking trip to the Lost Coast this week you may want to reconsider. Over 5 inches of rain is expected to fall over the next 5 days. If you have not already, read my last blog post in which I talk about creek crossings on the Lost Coast during periods of heavy rainfall. I will be out in the field possibly today and tomorrow and will return with pictures. In the meantime, enjoy the graphic above from NOAA that displays the 5 day precipitation forecast.

Spring Break Preview

2011-03-16T10:33:00.000-07:00

It is spring break season for many schools in the state which means backpacking and the outdoors for many of you. If you are thinking about making your destination the Lost Coast this week or next you should know that the conditions are wet, cold and rainy with possible hazardous seas. If this doesn’t sound like miserable conditions and I haven’t discouraged you then read on.

If you hike the Lost Coast in the current conditions BE PREPARED:

1. Be prepared to wait if you can’t continue due to high wave activity that blocks the trail. This Friday, March 18th, has a forecast for a 17 foot swell (this is huge). Wikipedia defines swell as the, “average height of the largest 33% of waves in a set, measured from the highest point of a wave to the lowest point.” You need to be aware that there are 2 sections along the trail that are impassable at high tide and with a large swell these areas may be difficult to pass at a low tide as well. The rest of the trail (which is supposedly passable at any tide level) can be difficult to pass at or near a high tide with a large swell as well. Click this link to watch a 15 second video I took near Black Sands Beach on Monday: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWyPfc1xSSs This is about an hour and a half after peak high tide with a large swell. Note that this area is not marked on the map as, “trail impassable at high tide.”

2. Be prepared to wait due to high rain activity that may make creeks impassable. With heavy rains the creeks along the Lost Coast trail can rise rapidly. I touched on this a bit in my last blog post but, in general, you should not attempt a creek crossing that is over knee high. Use your best judgment: If you can’t cross and the rains continue you may want to consider going back or taking an upland trail.

The good news is that we have AM minus tides for Monday March 21 through Friday March 25.

Starting on Monday, the morning low tides are as follows:

Date Time Tide
21 7:41 -0.8
22 8:33 -0.9
23 9:26 -0.8
24 10:23 -0.5
25 11:26 -0.1

The ideal travel times are within a few hours before and not more than a few hours after the peak low tide, especially in the sections of trail that are impassable at high tide. Use caution traveling after peak low tide because the tide will be on the rise.

Don’t let me discourage you from visiting the Lost Coast for your break. But, use your best judgment/senses and be prepared. Check local weather and ocean forecasts before your trip (conditions could change for better or worse from what I have posted here). http://www.noaa.gov/ and www.weather.gov/eureka Call me or send me an e-mail if you have any questions. My personal line is 707-986-5405. If I'm not in you can call our front desk at 707-986-5400.

Your Wilderness Ranger,

Paul

lostcoastranger@gmail.com

New Ranger and Winter Conditions

2011-02-18T13:42:00.000-08:00

Hi fellow hikers,
I am the new Wilderness Ranger for the King Range. Well, not completely new - I have worked 2 consecutive summers as a ranger here in 2009 and 2010. This has given me the opportunity to backpack the Lost Coast Trail more than 20 times and know it pretty well. So, let’s jump right in:
What are the current conditions?
When you backpack the King Range in the winter plan for extreme conditions. With heavy rain and snow fall we are again reminded that it is winter in the King Range. This means lots of trees and limbs on the trails as well as much more water in the creeks. What may be a small creek crossing can easily turn impassible within a day or even hours due to heavy rains. If you find yourself in this situation you may need to either wait until the water level drops or consider taking a route into the upland trails (which would add considerable mileage). The general rule is that if the water is higher than your knee you should not attempt to cross.

The second thing you need to be aware of is large waves. When I was on the LCT in early February many sections of the trail were impassable and very dangerous. I came across a couple that had an encounter with a wave and all they could do was grab onto the rocks and hold on. They were lucky that all they lost was an IPOD and a sleeping bag. During the summer I can hike with ease up to about a +3 foot tide, but in the winter the rules of the game change completely. Always travel on a receding tide but be advised that even on a low tide enormous waves can make traveling on the coast very difficult.

If you do plan to hike the LCT during the winter check local weather conditions and tide charts. Stay alert and always have a back-up plan. To check wave size (swell) go to www.weather.gov/eureka and click just left of shlter cove on the map (the ocean). For tidal information look under miscellaneous on the left hand side of the page, click on tides and currents, and then click on Shelter Cove.

Call me here at the office if you have any questions or drop me an e-mail.

Your Wilderness Ranger,

Paul

707-986-5405 lostcoastranger@gmail.com

A note about food storage and bears

2010-12-09T14:27:00.000-08:00

All overnight visitors must store all of their food, toiletries and scented items (Including trash) in a hard-sided bear-proof container approved by the Sierra Interagency Black Bear Group (SIBBG). Hanging your food is not an option in the King Range and on the Lost Coast Trail. Often people that have neglected to get a bear can tell me that they plan to hang their food because they have done a lot of backpacking in the Sierras and they are experienced with this. Well, that is great except that there is a serious lack of sufficient trees for hanging food on the LCT. Requirements for hanging food vary from place to place but generally 10’ high and 4’ from the base of the tree would be sufficient. You are not going to be able to achieve this on the LCT. The Picture above is a “bear hang” that I came across at Buck Creek. Their food was less than 5’ off the ground because this was the best tree they could find. This is one sad sight indeed.

Why do I need a bear can and what is it for?
People have told me that they aren’t worried if a bear gets their food, they will just cut their trip early. Besides, it will be exciting and adventurous to see a bear, they say. Well, the bear can is for protecting the bear from your food and not so much for protecting your food from the bear (although it is effective at this as well). You will notice on top of the Garcia Backpackers’ Cache it says, “Save the bears." So, what does this mean? When a bear starts to eat human food and learns that humans can be associated with an easy meal they will lose their fear of humans, come around campsites more often, and become increasingly aggressive. This is what you would call a “habituated” or “food conditioned” bear and they could eventually need to be put down if the aggression gets out of hand.

We are really lucky here at the King Range that we don’t have any habituated bears. In large part because we initiated the bear can requirement early enough and people have been abiding by the regulation; Last year our bear can compliance rate was 93%. Can we get it to 100%? I hope so.

So, what is a bear can?
There are several different makes and models of the bear can that are approved by the SIBBG which include the Bear Vault, the Barrikade, and the Garcia Backpackers’ Cache. The Ursack is Not approved, even with the aluminum insert. Do an internet search of any of these and you will get a good idea of what they look like. The Garcia is 8.8” in diameter, 12” long and cylindrical in shape. True, some say it is a bit heavy but keep in mind you can also use it as a chair and I have even seen them used as great percussion instruments.

Where can I get a bear can?
We rent out the Garcia bear can here at the BLM Project Office in Whitethorn for $5 for your entire journey. You will need a credit card and a drivers licensed (if you don’t return the bear can you will buy it). We are open Monday-Friday 8-4:30. If your trip ends after our closing hours you can drop your can off in the afterhours bear can return box next to our building. Keep in mind that our front gate will be closed but you can still walk in.
You can also rent from the BLM Field Office in Arcata which has the same hours as the Project office here in Whitethorn: Monday-Friday 8-4:30.
If you are starting your trip from the north you can rent your can from the Petrolia General Store for $5 as well. Their hours are Monday-Saturday 9-5:30 and Sunday from 11-5:00. Their number is 707-629-3455 if you want to verify the hours or have other questions.

REI also rents bear cans but the pricing varies from store to store so I won’t list it here. They did tell me that it is substantially less expensive for members, however.
If you plan on doing more trips in your life time it could be beneficial to just go ahead and purchase a can from one of the outdoor equipment suppliers.

Now I have a bear can what do I put in it?
Bears have an extremely heightened sense of smell. I have heard all kinds of statistics about this but just know that it is darn good and a whole lot better than yours. You want to store all of your food including cans and freeze dried foods. You also want to store all of your toiletries such as toothpaste, chapstick and sunscreen. Your trash still has scent so put that back in the can too (the cans we rent come with a small trash bag to help you with this).
I highly recommend that you check to make sure all of your food and other scented items fit into the can before you get to the trail head. It may require some creative packing to get everything to fit. Check out this link for more information about packing your bear can, they have some pretty good tips: http://sierrawild.gov/bears/how-pack-bear-can.

Lastly…
Bears are very real here in the King Range. People are often surprised that bears will come all the way down to the beach. But indeed, just about every morning on the LCT I see bear tracks in the sand. There is, however, one other animal that the bear can is good for: the raccoon. These little animals are a nuisance as far as your food is concerned. They are very active and will literately tear apart your backpack to get to your food. It is also a potential $150 fine for each member of a party who is not carrying a can or is storing food or scented items outside of one. Do yourself a favor and help protect the animals in the King Range by getting a bear can.

Give us a call here if you have any questions: 707-986-5400

Thanks,

Your Backcountry Ranger
Paul

Au revoir, plage perdu!

2010-09-20T13:48:00.000-07:00

Well. It's official and has been for months, old friends.

My two years as the backcountry ranger at King Range have come to an end.

I hope that the archived blog that I leave behind can be of some help to you and to our old friend, Posterity. "Would you like to say hello to Posterity?" (Mike Flanders of Flanders & Swann).

If you are planning a trip to the King Range... by all means contact the King Range office with your questions. They can still be reached at ca338@ca.blm.gov and at 707-986-5400. They will gladly answer your questions and will be most helpful in planning you trip.

Should that avenue seem difficult or should you have questions about this blog, feel free to contact me--your humble blogger--at my new email address. I can be reached at derek_carr@fws.gov. I do not guarantee a prompt response and honestly I cannot offer you the LATEST information on Lost Coast conditions--I am now stationed in Sacramento. The Lost Coast was my home for 2008-2010, though, and I haven't any trouble offering some free advice.

In addition, I am able to offer basic advice in planning a backpacking trip or other multi-day outdoor adventure.

If you are planning the trip of a lifetime and really need personalized help, drop me a line. If you are in the Bay Area or Sacramento, I'm just down the street.

Get out there and check it out!

Also, come visit me at www.velomento.blogspot.com.

Campfire restrictions in the King Range

2010-07-26T17:44:00.000-07:00

The King Range National Conservation Area is in full campfire restrictions as of 7/15/2010 and will continue to be so for the remainder of the dry season. The restriction includes all of the Lost Coast Trail and the beach. You are, however, still able to have campfires (in established campfire rings only) in developed campsites (campsites managed by BLM that you pay to stay at overnight).

Plan ahead and prepare by bringing a stove to cook with while you are in the backcountry. The seasonal rangers have been dismantling fire rings throughout the King Range to discourage visitors from having campfires. Please help us keep them that way.

Thanks,
Paul

A new addition to our ranger message:

2010-06-30T10:58:00.000-07:00

For the last few years, as I have been mucking my way around the King Range, I have been saying the same four things to everyone. These are the same things I have always said to you, my enlightened readers:

1. Overnight visitors need to have a King Range backcountry permit. These are free and self-issue at all trailheads as of June 2010.

2. Backcountry visitors should be aware of and follow all current fire restrictions.

3. All food needs to be stored in an approved, hard-sided bear canister—just like in the Sierras. 4. Human waste should be buried below the high tide mark in the wet sand or wet gravel while travelling on the Lost Coast.

These four points encapsulate well the rules of the road for the King Range and Lost Coast. There is an important item, however, that we have been missing in the standard ranger talk. All of our points somehow relate to Leave-No-Trace or minimum impact travel and use of the wilderness. It is our goal to keep the Lost Coast “lost”. It is our goal to have the place at least FEEL pristine—even if thousands of people each year hike the beach.

So. Leave No Trace. Leave the minimum possible impact. New for 2010: Our Point #5.
While travelling the beach, you may see examples of large, driftwood shelters or beach art. These are NOT a good example of a minimum impact or Leave-No-Trace practice. If you build something, please return the site to its natural condition before you leave.

I realize that the beach is very windy and sometimes there is no sheltered place to camp. If a group feels the need to stack a couple of logs to make a place to cook or put up a tent, I understand—it’s a part of the wilderness experience to create shelter for some people. When leaving the site, though… you wouldn’t leave the campfire burning, right? DO NOT LEAVE WINDBREAKS OR SHELTERS STANDING.

And don’t just knock it over in a heap. PUT THINGS BACK WHERE THEY CAME FROM.
Returning a site to its natural condition is the most awesome thing a group can do for ANY wilderness. “Leave-No-Trace” and “Minimum Impact” are great concepts—but they are just a beginning. A real lover of wilderness will go beyond picking up after themselves. A real lover of wilderness will take the extra step to return their campsite to a natural condition upon leaving. In the Sierras, I spread pine needles and rocks over the tent spot I used. In the King Range, I put the driftwood I used back down along the high-tide mark, where it came from.

Yours, for the Wilderness.
DC CARR

Keep the Lost Coast Lost: Leave No Trace

2010-06-20T16:58:00.000-07:00

Now announcing the start of a Leave No Trace ranger talk!

It will be held at the Mattole Campground every Friday at 5 PM and every Saturday at 10 AM starting the first week of July. The talk is for all ages and people, but targeting backpackers leaving for their trek down the Lost Coast Trail. Find out how you can keep the Lost Coast lost by following the Leave Not Trace principles during your hike. Hope to see you there!

Trent: Our Newest and most UKE-est Ranger!

2010-06-19T08:50:00.000-07:00

Trent is our new seasonal Ranger this 2010 season. He is a Rangeland Resource Science major at Humboldt State University. Trent is from Bend, OR; he fills his free time by hanging out with his dog Reef, surfing the north coast, and working on an organic farm. Trent hopes to learn all he can about the one and only Lost Coast. His favorite part of the job is being able to spend his summer out in the wilderness and getting to meet so many new people. Keep an eye and an ear out for Trent and his Ukulele when you are visiting the King Range this summer!

Paul: The Tall Ranger

2010-06-19T07:43:00.000-07:00

This is Paul’s second season as a backcountry ranger with the King Range. From September to May he studies Natural Resource Planning with a concentration in outdoor recreation at Humboldt State University in Arcata, California. Paul enjoys working outdoors and living with everything he needs on his back as well as talking and sharing stories with people on the trail. One of his goals for this summer is to increase visitor awareness about proper human waste disposal in the backcountry (On Lost Coast Trail: Bury all human waste in the sand below the high tide line. All other trails: Bury human waste 6-8 inches deep and at least 200 feet (approximately 70 paces) from streams when you are not near the ocean). Be sure to look for Paul when you are out hiking and share a good story with him!

Brianna: The Interpretive Ranger

2010-06-10T17:11:00.000-07:00

Brianna is a seasonal backcountry ranger working here in the King Range. She is excited it is her second season. During August through May, she is a student at Humboldt State University with a major in Natural Resources, with a concentration in outdoor education. Besides the area’s awesome landscape, she truly enjoys hearing and answering all the different questions visitors ask on the trail. One of her goals for this summer is to reduce the amount of trash on the beach.

Brianna will be giving a ranger talk starting in July about how the Leave No Trace principles apply to the Lost Coast Trail. Check the blog for the location, dates and times!

American Hiking Society Volunteers were a Smashing Success!

2010-05-18T09:21:00.000-07:00

Conditions were excellent this week for the King Range's yearly American Hiking Society (AHS) volunteer project. Each year, BLM staff team up with AHS volunteers as a part of that organization's "volunteer vacations" program. This year's volunteer vacation included ten volunteers from across the country. Two BLM staff--including your humble author--worked with the volunteers for five days on the Lost Coast.

We set out from Mattole on Monday with storm clouds overhead and scattered showers. Conditions cleared that evening, though, and left us with partly cloudy skies for the remainder of the trip. All around us, flowers were in bloom. There were whales spotted and many of the volunteers were able to see Stellar's sea lions and harbor seals. All in all, a great trip even without the project work.

Our party camped for its first night near Punta Gorda Lighhouse, then a second night at Cooskie Creek, then at Big Creek, and finally Shipman. Each night we ate a delightful meal as the sun went down, and each morning we worked hard to improve wilderness conditions on the Lost Coast.

The primary goal of this year's work party was to dismantle the many driftwood shelters that had appeared on the beach. Over the years, groups of hikers had constructed these shelters out of the abundant driftwood to act as windbreaks for their campsites. When some of these hikers chose not to leave their camp as they found it--chose to abandon Leave-No-Trace principles--a shelter was left behind. These shelters influence other hikers in choosing their campsites who sometimes added to the existing structure. As this cycle repeated, some of these "windbreaks" grew rather large--sometimes resembling small cabins with four walls and a partial roof! The structures on the beach this spring were large, eye-catching, full of trash and mice, and sometimes in danger of collapsing on their occupants.

AHS volunteers dismantled fourteen of these shelters over the course of the five-day volunteer vacation. Literally tons of driftwood were scattered or returned to the surf and the campsites were re-naturalized. This is work that even with the summer seasonal staff, I could not have accomplished. I am very grateful to all the hard work that these volunteers did this week, as California's only wilderness beach now feels a little less suburban.

Why did we destroy all of the driftwood shelters? Some might wonder. After all, people have been building driftwood shelters on the Lost Coast for a long time--perhaps thousands of years. The Lost Coast is a part of the King Range Wilderness. Wilderness--as a legal land status--was created by Congress in 1964 to provide the public with places to visit and recreate in that are free from evidence of the "hand of man". As land managers, we at BLM endeavor to provide the public with opportunities for "unconfined recreation"--words from the law. Unconfined recreation, as we see it, is your opportunity to go out and experience the wilderness as though you were discovering it for the first time. It is your opportunity to go out onto the land and make your own choices and use your own skills. This means choosing your own campsite to have a unique experience in and not being drawn to a human-constructed shelter that is visible from half-a-mile away.

I know some people like building shelters on the beach and using primitive skills like lashing and frapping to manipulate the driftwood in order to make a better campsite. THAT IS FINE. I have no problem with that. What is most important to me is that visitors LEAVE NO TRACE by dismantling their structure when finished.

If you must build a shelter on the beach, proceed in a responsible manner. Please dismantle the shelter before leaving your campsite to go home. Remember: the Lost Coast belongs to all of us. Choosing to leave your mark on the land will affect others who come to visit this amazing place in the days, months, and years to come.

Winter Continues! Links for rainy days...

2010-04-14T11:22:00.000-07:00

"Where have YOU been?" you might ask. Well. I have been out-and-about, I might answer. For the end of January and all of February, I was on vacation--some friends and I did a 29-day river trip through Grand Canyon and had suprisingly good weather. I try to escape Humboldt each February to get a break from what can often be one of our rainiest months. When I returned in March, I immediately set out to work with IMBA's Joey Klein.

Joey designs and builds mountain bike trails full-time. He is the expert. You may be wondering about the Wilderness Act's prohibition on mechanized transport. It is true that bicycles are not allowed within the King Range Wilderness. Areas outside of designated wilderness but still within the boundaries of King Range National Conservation Area are, though, ripe with potential for mountain bike trails. Over the last several years, BLM staff and Joey have worked together to construct a 14-mile loop called Paradise Royale which is designed with mountain bikes in mind. Now, I'm working with Joey on an additional eight miles of trail which will connect the Paradise Royale with the pavement at Shelter Cove Road. Click here to learn more about the mountain bike trails project, which is intended to replace mountain biking opportunities lost due to wilderness designation.

So I have been crashing through the bushes with a GPS and a clinometer for much of March. I am excited to get construction underway on the new trail. I am ALSO excited to be getting back into the King Range Backcountry in April.

I hiked from Lightning and then down Rattlesnake Ridge Trail to Big Flat during Spring Break. There are quite a few trees down on upland trails and the creeks are still high. Weather is fickle and the poison oak is finally blooming. It is a real wilderness out there, but the trails are passable.

In the coming weeks, I will begin scheduling trail crews and volunteer workers to put our trails and camps in order for the summer season. See you on the trail!

Winter Travel along the Lost Coast and King Range

2010-01-03T14:28:00.000-08:00

Winter is an exciting but challenging time to travel in the King Range Wilderness and along the Lost Coast of California. King Peak receives nearly 200 inches of rain per year, most of it falling from November to April. Long portions of the Coast are impassable during high tides or with large waves or ocean swell. After storms, the steep, narrow creeks whose canyons empty onto the beach are often in flood and impossible to cross.

Despite these factors, if you have the time, the inclination, and the flexibility to do a trip during the winter months you are likely to experience this wilderness area in its most awe-inspiring condition. Few other hikers travel the trails this time of year. The beach is wiped clean daily of even the footprints of passing hikers. The creeks are flowing, the hillsides are green, and the windows of clear weather that come between the storms are almost magical.

Flexibility and good judgement are key to a successful winter trip. Weather forecasts change frequently, so be prepared to postpone a trip or cut a planned trip short. Check the both the weather and the marine forecasts daily to familiarize yourself with the local patterns. If the forecast says "chance of rain," expect rain. Snow on the beach is not unheard of on the King Range.

I often talk with people by telephone or email who are planning winter trips. I tell them, "Prepare for Alaska." I have done several personal trips in Southeast and others that have may know what I mean. Expect uninterrupted days of rain. Expect high winds. Expect extreme sea conditions. If you get something wet... don't expect to be able to dry it out in the course of a three-or-four-day trip. Bring a synthetic sleeping bag and not one filled with down. Wear wool socks and not cotton. Bring LOTS of socks because you'll want dry ones after your creek crossings. Bring clothing and equipment that will protect you from unrelenting wind and rain.

All year, the tides are an issue on the Lost Coast. (Check out this brief video). Tides are even more important in the winter, though, because of the large waves that are so frequent during and between storm systems. In the summer I often tell people that on any receding tide, travel through the tide zones is possible. In winter it is more likely that on a weak low tide, the waves will be hitting the bluffs. Twenty-foot waves are not uncommon. A 2.8' low tide with fifteens or twenties is simply not safe. Travel through the tide zones must be planned on low tides below 1.0 when storm waves are forecast.

Did you watch the Tide Zone video, linked to above? This video was taken by a hiker and posted to YouTube after a mid-summer Lost Coast Trip. Waves in this video are probably less than six feet and the tide is at about four feet. A similar day in winter would have ten-or-twelve-foot waves. These people would need to be in wetsuits!

If you are considering a King Range Trip this winter, give our office a call. My direct line is 707-986-5405. I will be out of the office on vacation for the entire month of February. During that time, feel free to call the main office phone at 707-986-5400. All of our staff are familiar with the King Range's trails. Also don't forget to look at my archived blog posts from last winter--you will find photos and descriptions of the trail conditions and typical weather.

Remember that bear canisters are required for all overnight visitors to the King Range ALL YEAR ROUND. That means you and your party must carry sufficient cans to store all of your food and scented items (like toothpaste and surfboard wax) and must store these items in the canister when you are not using them.

Fires are permitted on the Lost Coast during the winter. Just be sure your fire is DEAD OUT with water before walking away from it.

Please use the beach as your toilet. Find a suitable place where you are out of reach of the waves, dig your hole, and defecate into the hole. Bury your feces and toilet paper such that the next high tide can mix them with sand and carry them away.

A backcountry permit is required for all overnight visitors. These permits are available at the trailheads.

Have a safe trip! Be in touch.
DC CARR, Backcountry Ranger, King Range NCA
derek_carr@ca.blm.gov

Now I'm on GTalk. Holler if you have a question!

2009-11-24T10:50:00.001-08:00

You can message me on Google, now. I am lostcoastranger@gmail.com. I will make it a habit of putting Gtalk on my desktop when I'm in the office. Continue to use derek_carr@ca.blm.gov for regular email. My phone is, as always, 707-986-5405. dc

Bears in Winter at King Range

2009-11-20T16:22:00.000-08:00

During my backcountry patrol last week, my partner and I visited with several groups of hikers. Of these, an unusual number did not have bear cans. We were told by two groups that they believed "bears would be hibernating" and, thus, bear cans would not be needed.

Not so. Regard yonder tooth-paste tube, punctured, it seems likely, but a dentally-concious vampire. My partner and I stayed at Kinsey Creek on our first night and at Gitchell our second. Each morning we found fresh bear tracks nearby. Indeed, between Kinsey and Big Creek we found bear tracks below the high tide mark--and this was only two hours after high tide. They are out and they are active.

Indeed, this time of year, bears are running out of food sources. The berries are done for the season. The fish and insects that make up a part of their diet are gone for the winter. What remains? Backpacker food? Maybe.

This is in large part why the bear can requirement is in place. ALL OVERNIGHT VISITORS to the King Range must keep their food in a hard-sided bear-proof container approved by the Sierra Interagency Black Bear Group (SIBBG). The approved containers include the Bear Vault, the Barrikade, and the Garcia Backpackers' Cache. The Ursack is NOT approved, even with the aluminum insert.

The bear can rule language has been recently changed from "each person must carry" a bear can to "all food and scented items must be stored in" a bear can. With this change, two people on an overnight trip may use one can. In my experience, two people for more than two nights will need more than one can. Last weekend our law enforcement officer began one conversation with, "Show me that all of this food fits." The food didn't fit. A citation was issued.

If you have questions or would like to discuss your trip planning, drop me an email or gimme a call. I am D.C. Carr. derek_carr@ca.blm.gov and 707-986-5405.

Winter's Arrival at King Range

2009-11-20T15:59:00.001-08:00

The second series of winter storms is now upon us and I feel justified in no longer expecting a long window of great weather in the King Range. Our winter weather if fickle to say the least and, as you plan your winter trip, you should do so with weather and its associates in mind. With weather come downed trees on the trails, difficult or impassable creek crossings, and extreme sea conditions in the tide zones. I hiked the LCT last weekend and none of the creek crossings were unusually difficult. Nearly two inches of rain have fallen on Cooskie Peak in the last twenty-four hours. Conditions today and this weekend may be quite different indeed.

Note in planning your trip that the NOAA website, weather.gov has been providing incorrect wave height predictions this week. Every day it shows "1 foot or less" whereas in reality, yesterday, I saw 14-waves on Black Sands Beach. In the photograph to the left, taken yesterday at Buck Creek, it seems apparent that the tide-zone between Miller Flat and Shipman Creek was nearly impassable three hours after high tide. My hike from Buck to Black Sands was easier, but there were a couple places where larger waves were hitting the bluffs.

This week's storms are dropping a fair amount of rain. If you plan to visit, have a look at the Cooskie Remote Automated Weather Site: http://raws.wrh.noaa.gov/cgi-bin/roman/meso_base.cgi?stn=PTEC1. This is our weather station on top of Cooskie Peak, in the northern part of the King Range. It gives accurate, hourly weather observations within the King Range. If this site receives more than a couple of inches of rain in twenty-four hours, do not plan to cross Cooskie or Four-Mile Creeks. Generally, if Four-Mile is not crossable, the same will be true of Big Flat Creek and Whale Gulch.

As I have said often, do not go into moving water that is greater than knee deep with a pack on. Have a PLAN B and be ready to enact it--even if that means "go back" or "wait it out". The creeks come up quickly and will often recede almost as fast--assuming that it's not still raining up high. Be patient and have a safe trip!

The Long-Promised State of the Upland Water Sources Report

2009-09-02T15:23:00.001-07:00

This is Bonus Spring. If you're looking at the new version of the map--or on the Wilderness Press map--it doesn't appear. We removed it from the newest edition because it was unreliable--but BONUS when it was running. This year, we did some tweaking to try and improve it. It's better, but still not year-round water.

I visited Bonus Spring and Miller Camp, this week. Both water sources are iffy. Both water sources are DRIPPING at about two drops per second. You could get water at either location, but is it really worth your time? Especially if you are dropping a bunch of elevation just to get water? Probably not.

So let's call Miller Loop a day-hike until the rains come. You can camp there, but plan to do so either dry or with a lot of waiting for water.

Maple and Bear Hollow continue to provide adequate water for camping. No problems there.

Telegraph Spring is your best bet if you are heading north from Rattlesnake along the KCT with intent to reach the Cooskie. Telegraph is along the Smith-Etter (Telegraph Ridge) road about one mile beyond the Kinsey Ridge Trailhead. It's a pipe sticking out of the ground--pretty obvious. It is still a stream of water, though nothing like Bear Hollow. Gimme a call before you do this trip--I'll keep an eye on it.

There is no other water in the high country. If you are doing that King Crest from Saddle to the Mattole, you will have water sources at Maple, Telegraph, and Cooskie Creek. Bear Hollow is eight tenths of a mile off the trail, should you need it.

The Dry Time is here. So. Pack plenty of water in the high country and remember: No Fires.

The beach is still doing pretty well for water: All named creeks are running.

The Fecal Burial Sermon

2009-09-02T14:36:00.000-07:00

Wow. I had a great weekend on the Lost Coast, this week. The weather was starting to feel like autumn and there was hardly anyone around. In addition, the tide zones were especially challenging--which is my chief amusement when I'm alone in the backcountry! I passed the northern tide zone at about 5' with moderate waves and it was certainly exciting. Several close calls. Note that I was NOT carrying a backpack!

I spent one night at Punta Gorda and a second night near where the Cooskie Creek Trail crosses Cooskie Creek. During the day on Saturday, I day-hiked to Spanish Flat. It was very quiet. I think I only saw four groups.

I inspected the work that the SCA's did recently on the Cooskie and Cooskie Spur Trails. The wayfinding in this area and the quality of the tread are much improved, though it is a work in progress. Realize when you walk the Cooskie that you are in a remote part of the wilderness and will have to bring your backcountry navigation skills to bear.

One thing I noted this past weekend, in the middle of my campsite--or just off to the side but in clear view of my tent--was a real pet peeve of mine. I will share this with you. This is a story about human waste disposal at a site away from the ocean:

Perhaps this seems a vulgar image to see on the internet, but believe me it was a more vulgar image to share my campsite with.

I'm not naming names, but I figure that this is the backcountry blog so let's talk about what's on my mind, backcountrywise.

When we issue permits, we remind people that human feces must be buried 6-8" deep and 200' from a camp or water source. In the instance illustrated above, we find a human turd buried under a 6"-tall rock placed on the surface of the soil. The human waste has certainly been placed beneath 6" of overburden, which a base reading of the requirements do seem to imply. Really, though--this is unacceptable. Never mind that it was in the campsite which is only a stone's throw from the creek. BURYING feces means digging a hole which means carrying a trowel. The soils in the King Range are often hard and difficult to dig in so be prepared for this--bring a metal trowel! But be sure that your toilet is in compliance with the rules. There are reasons for these guidelines...

1. It's leave-no-trace. Nobody wants to look at it or smell it, so put it out of sight. That's the most obvious.

2. It's the biology of decomposition. In order to acheive rapid decomposition so the stuff is gone, put it in contact with as many soil microbes as possible--bury it and, if you have the heart, mix some soil in before you cover it up!

3. It's about disease prevention. If you leave your turd exposed, flies are going to find it. They will land and crawl all over it. Later, when another group uses the site, those same flies are going to land with their smelly legs in someone's oatmeal. This is one manner of fecal ingestion--eating someone else's poop--occurs and it is a great way for diseases to be transmitted.

You may not be sick--but the bacteria in your bowel may not sit too well with those in someone else's body. Please be careful of this.

I was going to combine this message with a post about upland water sources... but I feel silly now combining the two. So. Stay tuned while I go and wash my hands!

Hunting Season Arrives at King Range

2009-08-24T14:12:00.000-07:00

It's a sure sign of the changing seasons. The summer seasonal rangers have gone back to school and the hunters have come out for deer. If you plan to visit at any time during the month of September, expect to see hunters and don't be surprised if you hear a rifle shot early in the morning or just before sundown. The best time to hunt is dawn and dusk. It is illegal to hunt for deer at night. Hunters will most likely be near camp during the day. If you are hiking--in the upland areas especially--and you meet hunters, don't hesitate to tell them where you plan to go! They expect to see people on the trails. If they know where YOU will be, they will probably avoid areas you are headed for--after all, you'll scare away the deer.

With hunting season also comes an increase in vehicle traffic in the King Range Wilderness.
Private landholders, whose lands are entirely surrounded by wilderness, are permitted under the 1964 Wilderness Act to continue to access their properties by the method which they commonly used prior to wilderness designation. So. The Smith and Etter cabins, which were routinely accessed by motor vehicle via the Kinsey Ridge and Smith-Etter Roads are still allowed to drive in. They have a key to the gate at the Kinsey Ridge Trailhead. Many of these landowners are hunters and you are likely to see them at or near their cabins with vehicles in the coming weeks.

Note that this land-owner priviledge does not extend to the general public and it does not mean that in-holders are permitted to drive anywhere in the wilderness. Landowners and their guests ONLY are permitted to drive TO and FROM their properties only within wilderness. They may not make detours or choose alternate routes. Should you witness a vehicle travelling somewhere where there are no inholdings--such as those on Big Flat and Spanish Flat--and the vehicle is not travelling to or from these inholdings from Kinsey Ridge... they are probably making illegal use of YOUR wilderness. Don't hesitate to contact the BLM with a description of the vehicle, where it was, and plate numbers if possible.

There were several trucks and ATVs in the Wilderness this past weekend, both on Spanish and and Big Flats. Be prepared for these legal landowners and don't let them spoil your trip. If you don't want to see motor vehicles, plan to camp somewhere other than Spanish or Big Flats...

The Good News, the Steep Climb, and the Big Ugly

2009-08-10T14:26:00.000-07:00

Hey! It's another afternoon on the Lost Coast of California. I spent the weekend out in the King Range--hiked from North Slide, down Rattlesnake to Buck and then out to Black Sands in the morning. Everything is looking good out there--there is water in the creeks and the number of people on the trails is down from July which makes for a nice experience.

If you're planning a trip, make sure you are prepared. It's a wild world out there. Give us a call, here at the office--707-986-5400--or drop me an email at derek_carr@ca.blm.gov . Lets talk about your plan and come up with an itinerary. Set goals that aren't too outrageous so that you have time to enjoy your trip! We had a group this past week who planned to hike out the Lost Coast and then back the King Crest--all in four days!

Some of you may be looking at your BLM King Range Map right now and saying ,"Heh, that's not so bad! What's he making the big deal about?" Well. The King Range trails are STEEP!

This is a picture I took, this week, as I was diving down the first of eighty-six switchbacks below Bear Hollow Camp, on the Rattlesnake Ridge Trail. The trail loses more than 2000' of elevation in just over two miles below this point. If I'm planning a trip... I try not to plan to hike up this grade with a pack loaded with food.

If you want to hike the King Range Uplands, either plan to hike up the hill on your last day or plan to set a shuttle--so you can start high and end your trip low. If you need help setting your shuttle, check out http://www.lostcoastshuttle.com/. Sherri is one of the permitted shuttle operators for the Lost Coast--that means we've checked her insurance and she pays the BLM a permit fee which helps to pay for the management of the area. Her service may seem expensive to you--$200 for two people and all their gear from Black Sands to Mattole--but if you haven't driven the roads here you don't know how much wear-and-tear it is on a vehicle. With the cost of gasoline and the time you save not having to drive back and forth--as much as two hours one way--it starts to make more sense.

And. Lastly. About the tides...

This week, one of our seasonal rangers captured some excellent digital "footage" of one of his friends hiking through the Impassable Tide Zone near Shipman Creek. North of Shipman there is a rock that is impassable above about four feet. The ocean has removed a lot of sand from this site in the past few months... even at tides as low as three feet with waves, it is possible to get hit with a wave at this spot. Be warned! Look at the conditions when you arrive and make a smart decision based on what you see--if it isn't safe, don' t continue!

Check out this tide chart. I often tell people to try to travel in the Impassable Zones below 4.5'. That's just a guide. There is NO GUARANTEED SAFE ZONE on this tide chart. The ocean moves sand and gravel on this beach EVERY DAY. Conditions can change from hour to hour. I say "4.5" because below this level it tends to be do-able. If you arrive at 4', though, and the waves are obviously pounding the rock... think twice and realize that YOU are THERE and I am not!

Travel safely!
DC CARR
derek_carr@ca.blm.gov
707-986-5405

Sea Lions, Trails, and Maps: Check it Out

2009-07-02T09:52:00.000-07:00

These past few weeks have brought to light three issues that I would like to share with you today:

1. There are an unusual number of stranded sea lions on the Lost Coast. This appears to be the situation throughout California this year. We have noted several--about one every other mile of beach--dead or dying sea lions on each patrol this year. This week, we have begun officially documenting these strandings and providing the information to biologists at Humboldt State University. The word we are getting from the scientists is that there has been a recent, rapid decline in the populations of fish such as sardines which the sea lions rely on for food. This may be related to a change in ocean temperature believed to be connected with a developing strong El Nino in the Pacific. That means more dead sea lions and probably a lot of nasty storms this coming winter for the Lost Coast. Meanwhile, we're all checking in on the sea lions.

2. The Student Conservation Association (SCA) trail crew working at King Range this summer is making good progress at opening up the trail system. In the past two weeks, they have removed downed trees from the Miller Loop, the northern half of the King Crest Trail, and a majority of the Rattlesnake Trail. These were the areas with the greatest concentration of winter storm damage. This week, they are clearing trail south of Nicks Camp on Chemise Mountain. Many thanks to all the hard work, SCA!

3. Visitors are coming to the Lost Coast with inadequate maps! We spoke with two groups in the backcountry this week who were having trouble navigating with the maps they brought. One group was carrying a 1970 map of the King Range and another carried the Wilderness Press Lost Coast map, available from REI and other sporting goods stores. I will freely state that I do not believe this Wilderness Press map to be adequate. Some creeks do not appear on the map, the countour interval is 500', and it has very little detail. The creek commonly known as "Big Creek" is labled on the Wilderness Press map as "Hadley Creek," which was is an old name which is no longer used on USGS maps. If you are looking for a map of the Lost Coast, give our office a call. The BLM publishes an excellent map of the King Range with a scale similar to that of the Wilderness Press map. BLM's map is on waterproof paper, has excellent detail, a 100' contour interval, and is scaled at 1:5280. The map is available from BLM for $5--a little more than half what the Wilderness Press map retails for. Stop by the BLM office, call, or email them to get a copy. BLM will mail you a copy if you telephone to purchase with a credit card. Call them up at 707-986-5400 or 707-825-2300. Send email to ca338@ca.blm.gov.

King Range's Summer Season has Begun

2009-06-15T07:46:00.000-07:00

Since Memorial Day, King Range Staff have been engaged in training and preparing our seasonal ranger staff for their summer on the Lost Coast. The last week of May, our new rangers and I walked the coast and took on two trail maintenance projects, removing some dense brush near Spanish Flat and establishing a safe route around a landslide on Lower Rattlesnake Trail. King Range hired five seasonal staff, this year. If you plan to do a trip this summer, you may have an opportunity to meet and greet our new crew! I will be on the beach also, so look for us in our new green shirts.

During our training, we went over all the same points that I have gone over in the blog, over the course of the past six months. Our staff has four talking points and I am sure you will recognize them:

Backcountry permits are required for all groups spending at least one night in the backcountry. These are available for free at all trailheads. Read the permit before you sign, and be sure you are in compliance with the regulations attached! Organized groups and commercial groups must have a special use permit, issued by the King Range Office.

All overnight users must store all of their food in hard-sided bear-proof canisters such as the Bear Vault or Garcia Backpackers' Cache. All food must fit--no food hangs allowed!

Campfires are allowed in existing fire rings, burning dead-and-down wood or driftwood. Fire restrictions may go into effect in late June, stay tuned for details.

All human waste on the beach must be buried in a hole six-to-eight inches deep BELOW THE HIGH TIDE MARK. Use the toilet in the wet sand or gravel, close to the ocean. Just like in the high country, be sanitary away from drinking water sources. The ocean is NOT a drinking water source.

We are on the trails seven days a week, all summer to offer advice and assistance. We will be inspecting permits. We look forward to visiting with you on the trail!

Memorial Day Weekend Approaches

2009-05-18T20:37:00.000-07:00

I know it. You're just aching to get out there for the long weekend and get in some real beach time!

The Lost Coast is a great trip for Memorial Day weekend. The weather is usually pretty good. The water sources are still plentiful. Flowers are still blooming. The grass is still green. It's all in all a good time to be up here.

You will not be alone. Expect to see quite a number of other groups, especially if you plan to walk the beach from Mattole to Black Sands Beach. Big Flat, Shipman Creek, and Buck Creek will probably be crowded on your last night!

The Lost Coast trail is open with no major obstacles at this time. Some of the creeks may require wading, but that's part of the fun. Be careful with log crossings or hopping on rocks--these are not maintained by me or the trail crew and they can be unstable and slippery!

Upland trails are all open, though some may have a lot of trees down. There was a report, this week, of a new wash-out in a tight spot along the Rattlesnake Ridge Trail. Apparently, the damaged area is in an already-narrow section of trail on a steep hillside. There could be danger of a nasty fall here--watch your step. It may be possible to avoid this section by utilizing an old trail reroute nearby which crosses the creek above and below the wash-out. This area has been trouble in the past. If you hiked Rattlesnake before September of last year, you have probably walked the old reroute, as trail crew repaired the last slide in this spot at that time. Use your judgement and remember you are in wilderness--if something happens, help could be a long way off.

Be sure to bring bear cans. Hard-sided bear-proof containers are required to store all of your food. Bear-hangs are not allowed. Dogs, knives, guns, shouting, beating on pans, and building a big fire are not acceptable substitutes for a bear-proof canister.

If your food is in the cans, the bears are likely to leave you alone. They're smart. They know where to concentrate their energies.

Fires are currently allowed in the King Range. Please use already-existing fire rings at established campsites. These fire rings are not something BLM has built, but people have already built enough of them--don't add to the clutter. Please use dead-and-down firewood. Leave your axe and hand-saw at home. There is plenty of driftwood on the beach for everyone.

When you need to use the toilet, find a quiet stretch of beach and dig your hole BELOW the high tide mark in wet sand or gravel. PLEASE DO NOT dig a hole behind camp on the hillside. The Lost Coast campsites receive a large number of visitors each year and there simply isn't enough ground for everyone to dig a latrine. Dig below high tide and the ocean will refresh the site for the next visitor.

Don't be squeemish about this ocean-burial of feces routine. Every 2000-pound sea lion you see this week will be doing the same thing--and they aren't burying theirs. When you see the beached whale between Kinsey and Oat Creeks... think about that too. On the reverse, walk behind the campsite upstream of the Buck Creek mouth and take a deep breath... smell... you know what that smell is, right?

Bury your toilet paper below the high tide mark or carry it out with you. Burning it is messy and hazardous. The longer it is above ground, the more time the wind has to carry it away and imbed it in a poison oak bush--and I am not digging in there to get anyone's toilet paper!

Backcountry permits are required. These are available for free at all trailheads except Windy Point. The Mattole box ran out last week and some people wrote down their group size, destination, and dates on a piece of scratch paper. I am very grateful to those thoughtful folks and, when I met them on the trail and checked their "permit"... I told them that!

The information from the permit is very important for the pretty graphs that I produce each year to show managers how many people hike the Lost Coast, how that number is changing over the years, and HOW IT COMPARES to campsite condition. We are in the process of calculating visitor carrying capacity for the Lost Coast.

I will be out of the office until Friday morning... if you have last minute questions, call the main King Range phone at 707-986-5400.

If you call that number, you will talk to Meghan, our new front-desk staffer. She just walked the Lost Coast with me last week and is ready to answer your questions!

Give her a call at 707-986-5400, Monday-Friday 8am-4:30pm Pacific.

Tidal Factors for Lost Coast Hikers

2009-05-01T16:53:00.000-07:00

One of the most common questions I get over the telephone or by email is “What do I do about the tides?” Well the answer is easy: you keep an eye on them and never turn your back on the ocean!

The Lost Coast is a unique backpacking trip because all along it there is a large objective hazard that doesn’t exist along most hikes—the ocean. The ocean can hurt you in a variety of ways. It can knock you down with a wave and cause trauma. It can drench you so that you get cold and later hypothermic. It can sweep you off your feet and drown you at sea. It can steal your gear, leaving you cold and hungry. It can also trap you for hours if you get caught in the tide zone on a rising tide.

All of these mishaps are avoidable by following a few simple rules:

1. Never turn your back on the ocean and don’t trust the ocean to behave.

2. Carry a tide chart, know how to read it, and heed its warnings.

3. Know your limitations and don’t be afraid to wait.

There are two large segments of the Lost Coast Trail that show on many maps as “Impassable at high tide” or something similar. The fact is, these segments may be quite passable at a very low high tide with calm seas or somewhat impassable at a high low tide with big waves. It’s all a matter of what the situation is and how good you are at reading the conditions. I generally tell people to always travel in these zones on a receding tide. Based on the tide chart we distribute, I recommend not traveling in these zones at a tide greater than five feet.

Travel in these zones on a receding tide.

That’s the most important advice I can offer. On a receding tide, should you come to an impasse, it is quite safe to wait and the conditions will get better until low tide. If you are hiking along and you get to a rock that is awash, you just take a break and eat a snack.

If you are travelling on a rising tide, on the other hand, and have already passed two difficult sections when you reach this rock that is awash… you may be stuck and you may be in danger. The difficult sections you passed may now be quite impassable and the rock in front of you is only going to get worse. In this situation, seek out the highest, driest ground you can find and hunker down. At this point, you are at the mercy of the ocean and should pray that it does not produce any rogue waves or tsunamis.

The “tide zones” are not generally inundated by high tide. At any level short of seven or eight feet, there are likely sections within these zones where limited travel is possible. I have travelled from Cooskie to Randall Creek on a six-foot tide with small waves and stayed dry. I had to time my run around a couple of headlands to not get my feet wet but it is possible. Generally, the headlands that become impassable do this at between four and five feet on the tide chart. This assumes minimal wave activity. With larger waves, travel is more restricted or at least more risky.

The ocean may also move gravel and sand on the beach from day to day, so the exact heights at which some points are passable can change frequently.

Low tides on the Lost Coast tend to be between minus one and two feet. High tides are usually between five and seven feet. Anything greater than seven or less than zero is extreme. A high tide of less than five feet is not unheard of and some “low” tides may be greater than three feet. These are also extremes in the opposite direction. Look at your tide chart because any of these may affect travel. A three foot low tide with ten foot waves may make it impossible to get from Big Flat to Shipman Creek, for example, whereas a four-and-a-half-foot high tide with calm seas may allow unfettered travel along the entire Lost Coast.

Before you come to do your LCT through-hike, look at the forecasted tides. A good resource for visual learners can be found at http://129.252.79.73/tide/tideshow.cgi?site=Shelter+Cove,+California&type=graph

This is a graphical representation of the tidal activity forecast for Shelter Cove, near Black Sands Beach. The exact times of high and low tide may vary by up to fifteen minutes from Mattole, but on the beach it will be difficult to see these differences without burying a yardstick in the sand.

Don’t sweat the numbers in the tide book. Just ask these questions with reference to the time you plan to travel:

1. When is the low and how low is it?

2. When is the high and how high is it?

With this information you will know if you need to be in a hurry or not. Our tide cycle is always about six and a half hours so if the fluctuations are extreme, the tide will rise or fall rapidly. If the change between high and low tide is only a few feet, the change will be slow and subtle. The tide cycle forms a fairly regular, wave-like pattern over the course of a day and the rates of rising and ebbing tides will also be quite regular.

Take this example. High tide is forecast to be six feet at 9am. Low tide is forecast to be zero feet at about 4pm. What will the tide be at around 12:30pm? The math is fairly simple. About halfway through the tide cycle, the tide will have receded about half-way. The tide should be around three feet and receding—a great time to travel.

In either case, look at the tidal information with a recent marine forecast in mind. Waves of under five feet tend to be no problem. Waves of greater than ten feet can get quite intimidating or dangerous as the tide rises. Waves approaching twenty feet should be a big warning sign—don’t travel on the beach when sea conditions are extreme.

Remember also that forecasted wave and swell heights are forecast averages. If the forecast is for ten footers, most of the waves you see will be in the ten-foot range. Never turn your back on the ocean, though. Statistically, one in ten waves is likely to be greater than eleven feet. One in one hundred waves will exceed sixteen feet. One in a thousand waves will be greater than nineteen feet. Waves of even greater ratio are what are known as “rogue” waves. These can be more than twice the forecasted wave height and can occur at any time.

Remember also that if the forecasted wave period is eight seconds—meaning a period of eight seconds between waves—that the nineteen-footer could come ashore every eight thousand seconds. That’s less than two and a half hours. Never turn your back on the ocean.

Always watch the ocean and be prepared to respond to changing or unusual conditions. Most often, you will not see or notice these huge waves—travelling with seas forecast at two feet, a four-footer qualifies as “huge”. If you are reading ahead in your tide chart, you will not find yourself stuck in the tide zone at a rising eight-foot-tide. Take the time to plan out your day. Don’t hesitate to dawdle in camp for an hour and wait for more favorable tidal conditions.

Travel the Lost Coast on receding tides that are less than four-and-a-half feet.

Long-time no hear!

2009-04-28T14:01:00.000-07:00

And you wonder why I haven't been posting? It's because I've been out hiking the Lost Coast! Now is the time to be here. The weather has been beautiful and the crowds haven't yet decended upon us. We had a few busy weeks in March, during Spring Break, but all in all it has been quite fine.

So you're thinking of coming up this spring or summer? Great. Start planning your trip now. Check out this new tide chart I found. Find a place to rent a bear can before you come--if you're in the Bay Area or Southern Humboldt I can offer a few suggestions. Keep an eye on King Range's website for the latest fire restrictions. And pick up a backcountry permit at any trailhead.

I will make an effort to post through the spring and summer, here. There is a lot going on, but I do enjoy the writing and all of the great feedback. Take care. DC CARR, Backcountry Ranger, King Range NCA, 707-986-5405, derek_carr@ca.blm.gov.

More snow in the King Range.

2009-03-21T00:01:00.000-07:00

This week, I patrolled the Rattlesnake Trail and LCT. During my trip, I assessed hazards and trail conditions between Lightning Trailhead, King Peak, Bear Hollow, Big Flat, and Black Sands Beach. In the past few weeks, I have begun receiving many telephone calls regarding conditions on the Saddle-Rattle-Buck Loop. This patrol was in part to answer those questions.

If you are considering this loop trip and have any doubts about your abilities... consider something else at least until the next few storms pass through. There are about sixty trees down. The creek crossings are challenging, dangerous, or impossible. The trail is in some places covered by steep, icy snow which can send a falling down slopes of ridiculous steepness.

I know that this loop has been done by some parties this spring and I do not deny that it can be done--and safely if conditions permit. During and immediately following storms, however, this trip is not recommended.

Two days after a storm passed, I found the creek crossing near the confluence of the North and South Forks of Big Flat Creek to be dangerously high.

Where I crossed this torrent, it was waist deep and nearly lifted me off of my feet. Avoid taking a swim. If you come to a crossing like this, either turn back or wait it out. That same night, I camped at Big Flat. The creek level dropped a few inches overnight and continued to fall during the day.

The Lost Coast was in pretty good shape. Big Flat, Shipman, and Telegraph Creeks were deep enough I had to take off my shoes. Shipman was especially swift and may have been more challenging to cross at the beach than Big Flat.

This weekend, another storm is forecast to bring snow levels down to near 1000'. Upland trails may be impassable or very difficult all week. The middle of this week is forecast to be beautiful, however, and the beach may be a fine place to be.

Just remember, when setting out for an early-season trip on the Lost Coast: HAVE A PLAN B.
Don't leave your Plan B as "get rescued". Be prepared for intense conditions and be prepared to turn back or wait it out. Review weather and marine forecasts before coming. Carry a tide chart. Feel free to call our office if you have any concerns: 707-986-5400.

We're open Mon-Fri 8-4:30.

You can email me questions at derek_carr@ca.blm.gov.

Spring Break

2009-03-13T15:32:00.000-07:00

Spring Break is a popular time to visit the Lost Coast and King Range Wilderness.

Many schools, such as Humboldt State and the UC System, are on spring break the second half of March. If you are looking for solitude... you might not find it at Big Flat.

Try visiting some other, less popular part of the Lost Coast. Spanish Flat is just as cool as Big Flat, in my opinion, and is far less used. This might be a good place to spend a few nights while the party animals try and fail to surf at Big Flat.

Also. Remember a couple of things, if you are coming out for Spring Break:
1. Pack out what you pack in. If you're tough enough to carry it in full... carry out the empties.
2. Bring a bear-proof can to store all of your food. The bears are awake now. Hanging food does not always work! Cans are now required by law.
3. Be careful with your fire--please use existing stone fire rings and put out your fire with water. Do not use sand!
4. On the Coast, the tide-zone is the toilet. Please bury feces and paper in the wet sand or gravel. Please pack out other trash such as tampons and beer bottles.
5. Respect your neighbors. The Lost Coast isn't all that LOST and it belongs to EVERYONE!

Most importantly, have fun and be safe out there!

Spring on the Lost Coast and King Range

2009-03-13T15:14:00.000-07:00

The alder trees are budding and columbine are in bloom along the Lost Coast this week.

I hiked, March nine and ten, into Big Flat from Black Sands Beach. All of the creeks are up, but only Telegraph, Shipman, and Big Flat were high enough that I needed to remove my boots. Never did I go into water greater than knee deep--all of these crossings were safe. Gitchell and Horse Mountain Creeks were shallow enough or had enough stepping-stones that I was able to cross without removing my hiking boots.

Big Flat Creek has obviously been very active this winter. Two of last year's shelters and a clump of bushes have been completely obliterated by the creek's action. The watercourse has straightened itself on the beach, abandoning the bend around the vegetation that it had last year. There are a number of abandoned channels and a couple of small oxbow ponds in the delta, right now, which tell stories of big storms in February. There are a couple of shallow crossings on Big Flat Creek, utilizing an island and a couple of large logs to cross the deepest portion of the stream.

Keep an eye out, though, as these streams can change suddenly. I camped at Shipman Creek, which dropped nearly six inches overnight. There is rain forcast for this weekend--it could easily regain those six inches and then some in no time at all.

No new hazards to report on the southern portion of the Lost Coast.

The reroute we completed on Rattlesnake Ridge Trail, in September, is still holding up. There was a small slide on the west approach to the timber structure. This can be passed safely, though it will be a maintanence issue later in the season.

The King Crest still has snow in places. The snow was visible from Big Flat. Be prepared for this if you plan to hike the Upland Trails this week.

Summer in January

2009-01-21T11:20:00.000-08:00

After a series of winter storms that lashed the North Coast in December, January has been unseasonably warm and dry on the King Range. You will note how long it has been since my last post--since returning from the winter holidays I have been lucky enough to be in the field almost every day! The MLK weekend was busy at Big Flat with hikers and surfers taking in the winter sun and surf.

If you're planning an off-season trip, "holes" in the weather like this one are your boon. This month and the next few weeks may bring unique opportunities to see the Lost Coast during this usually-stormy time of year. Yet beware, the storms of winter can return at any moment!

Even without the storms, there are hazards to watch for. Fourmile Creek, near Mattole, was nearly waist-deep, week before last, and treacherous to cross. One group of hikers I spoke with told me that Big Flat Creek was nearly impassable. The creeks, still high with last month's snowmelt, will rise even higher when the storms return.

Many hikers have mentioned that Big Flat was crowded, over MLK weekend, and that several parties arrived by motorboat. Remember that motorboats must be moored OFFSHORE. No motorized landings are permitted on the Lost Coast--this prohibition includes all landings down to the extreme low tide mark. The King Range is Wilderness with a capital "W".

I'm leaving in a few days for the Grand Canyon--my hideaway from the North Coast's winter fog--and will be offline for the entire month of February. In my absence, feel free to contact the King Range's main office phone at 707-986-5400 or email at ca338@ca.blm.gov.

Snow Comes to the King Range

2008-12-17T12:32:00.000-08:00

If you were thinking of a nice escape to the Lost Coast for this holiday season, you might think again after this week's snowstorm. Up to eight inches of snow fell in the King Range making travel dangerous by road and trecherous by trail. Though I haven't climbed to the top, I would guess there is more than a foot of snow on King Peak. The paved roads are slick with ice and the dirt roads are blanketed in snow.
The snow level was 500' all this past weekend and is forecast at 1000' for the next storm, predicted for tomorrow. The Lost Coast itself--the beach--is, of course, snow free.

"Why then," you may ask, "shouldn't I hike the Lost Coast Trail this week?" If you were considering coming up at all, I'm sure you already realize that it's cold and expected to rain. What you may not have considered is what that rain is going to do to the thousands of tons of snow sitting on the mountainsides this weekend.

On the coast, this weekend, I forecast partly cloudy skies with scattered rainshowers on Saturday with a chance of mudslides near steeper slopes. Expect creeks to be swollen and impassable with snowmelt. Expect more of the same on Sunday, but with more rain. One thing that will be less of an issue this weekend is surf--the ocean is forecast to be nearly calm on Saturday, between the storms.

That's the score from the California Coast's winter wonderland.

Winter Conditions Forecast for this Weekend

2008-12-10T09:47:00.000-08:00

Here it comes, folks! At long last a winter storm is forecast for this coming weekend. Snow levels will be low, there will be rain, and there will be cold. Creek levels will rise rapidly and creek crossings will be impossible. If you were thinking this was your weekend... think again! The Lost Coast Trail in winter conditions is not an adventure--it is a foolhardy endeavor. This weekend's storm combined with the forecast 8.8 high tide on Saturday night may mean camps that were high and dry all summer will be washed away. If you're planning a trip, do be sure to call the BLM office. The office umber is 707-986-5400. We're here Monday-Friday from 8am to 4:30pm.

Upland Trails Report -- A Few Trees Down

2008-12-05T10:06:00.000-08:00

As of today, the King Range Trails are in pretty good shape for those of you adventurous travelers heading out for a winter trip. There hasn't been any snow to speak of and the rain has been quite minimal for this time of year. All week on the Crest, it was sunny with highs in the mid sixties. Since before Thanksgiving, I have hiked much of the King Crest Trail and its tributaries. Here is the play by play and condition report:

Horse Mountain Creek Trail was cleared on December 2. There is one tree down at near mile one. It is an easy step-over, 8" diameter lying on the ground. There has been some illicit motorbike activity on this trial so I am leaving a step-over here and there. The two trees that were reported in late summer as difficult to pass have been finally removed.

Buck Creek Trail has fewer than half-a-dozen trees down mostly in the middle portion. These are all easily passable for backpackers. There are some areas that need some spot-brushing but nothing that will hinder navigation. Note that one of the "trees" down is actually a large limb from a Douglas Fir. The limb is still hung-up in the tree and is partially hanging over the trail. It is simply impossible to remove at this time with non-motorized equipment and a trail staff of one person. I have cleaned it to make it passable. Just don't lunch under the hanging limb.

King Crest Trail from Saddle Mountain Trailhead to Maple Camp has several blowdowns, none of them impassable. Note that about two miles from Saddle, the old road which the trail follows ends and constructed hiking trail begins. At this point, there are three medium-sized trees down across the trail. These trees--on first inspection--will suggest that the trail is somewhere else... don't be fooled. Step across these trees--all of them are step-overs--and the trail becomes easy to follow just beyond them.

Maple Camp is in good shape with good water flowing.

Lightning Trail was cleared yesterday. There are a few trees hung up near the trail which could come down in the next storm. None of these are blocking the trail but watch for them.

King Peak is open and snow free.

King Crest Trail from Lightning Junction to Miller Junction. Completely clear and open as of last week. There have been no major wind events since then.

Bear Hollow Camp is open, in good shape, with good water flowing.

Rattle Snake Ridge Trail. I hiked as far as Bear Hollow on a day-trip and saw no problems. Some other hikers I talked with who had come from Big Flat mentioned that there are several trees down on the switchbacks but nothing difficult to pass. The hikers also mentioned that Big Flat Creek at the bottom of the switchbacks is high and difficult to cross. Be warned.

Trees can come down at any time along the King Crest, particularly in areas that burned in the 2003 Honeydew Fire. When you are hiking up there, keep an eye out--especially if it is windy--because being wacked by a large branch or any tree could ruin your day. Maple and Miller Camps were spared the fire and so has no elevated risk of blowdowns. Bear Hollow did burn over but many snags were removed by a CCC crew this past spring. Camping at these locations should be reasonably safe. Choose your lunch spot carefully, though, and don't set up a wilderness camp in an area surrounded by snags or hung with widowmakers. Always Look Up, Look Down, and Look Around--be aware of your surroundings--in the wilderness.

The Sea Lion Gulch Detour--IMPORTANT

2008-12-05T09:50:00.000-08:00

Before heading out--whether on a winter trip or planning for Memorial Day--be sure to look at the Sea Lion Gulch Detour. A major landslide changed the shape of this portion of the Lost Coast--what was always a tricky spot is now nearly impossible. A detour is in place. My other blog has the details. Definitely check out the link to the Youtube Video--it will give you and idea how important this detour is. Here's a photograph of us adding additional markings to the new route.

Winter hiking conditions on the Lost Coast

2008-11-19T16:47:00.000-08:00

So far so good as far as winter hiking on the Lost Coast. We haven't had any of the horrible storms, yet, that characterize this area and so the place has thusfar failed to become a disaster area.

There are two factors that will kill you or ruin your trip in the Lost Coast winter. This is assuming you already are thinking about the potential for torrential downpours.

1. Huge Waves. The high tides and super storms of winter bring with them some dramatic waves off of the ocean. The 12' swells that seemed pretty neat in the summer are just an everyday thing in winter. It isn't uncommon for 24's to come ashore during a winter storm. This will make the coastal portions of the trail not just impassable but potentially deadly, causing landslides and sweeping everything on the beach out to sea. Be careful where you make camp. This also rearranges the coastal landscape--a landmark you remember from summer may be buried, moved, or simply gone after a storm. The mile-long beach just north of Sea Lion Gulch was scoured clean of its sand, two weeks ago--totally unrecognizable. It looks like the sand was redesposited north of Cooskie--in an area that used to be rocky. Go figure.

2. Difficult or impossible stream crossings. Each of the creeks that comes down to the ocean from the King Range Crest can become a raging torrent during and after a storm. Even if it isn't raining on the beach--think of flash floods in the Southwest Desert--these creeks can rise suddenly and dramatically. Depending on the rainfall event, they can stay swollen for hours. One of my co-workers was unable to cross Cooskie a few years ago--even down near the ocean at low tide, in the alluvial fan. He had to wait five hours for the water to go down before he could cross it in icy calf-deep water. This week, the creeks are all crossable--you can hop from rock to rock and stay dry. It was a challenge at Big Flat Creek but do-able. Remember that if you do choose to cross a creek by taking off your shoes and wading... NEVER CROSS MOVING WATER DEEPER THAN YOUR KNEE. The water is pretty heavy--go deep as your thigh and it is pushing against you with hundreds of pounds of force. Wait it out. Be vigilant for additional rise of the water. Have a plan B.

That's really the take-home message about hiking the Lost Coast in winter. HAVE A PLAN B.

Ta-ta!
Ranger DC

Campfires on the Beach

2008-10-31T16:28:00.000-07:00

ALWAYS PUT OUT YOUR FIRE WITH WATER not sand.

The King Range is shaped by fire. As you hike the Lost Coast, this is unmistakable. Thousands of acres burned in the Honeydew fire, only four years ago. When you imagine this huge fire burning and feel the nearly constant northwest wind, you can understand why the neighbors down in Shelter Cove--just downwind--are jittery about smoke rising from the beach.

Only thirty years ago, a fire burned all of what is now Shelter Cove and the burnt remains of trees still remain from that fire to remind people of how tenuous their security from fire is, there.

Most of the year, campfires are permitted along the Lost Coast and King Range. In order to legally have a campfire, campers must possess a campfire permit which along the Lost Coast is also your Backcountry Permit. The permits are available in the brown metal boxes at each trailhead--fill it out, keep the white copy, and put the yellow copy in the slot on the front of the box. With this permit, you are good to go as far as fire and overnight use are concerned.

The permit says to observe all current fire restrictions. Most of the year, you are asked to use existing fire rings whenever you can and please use water not sand to put out your fire.

"Why can't I use sand? There's plenty of it on the beach and firefighters use it." Sand can smother a fire, it is true. Winds on the King Range can go from calm to gale force in a matter of minutes, though--especially in the mid-morning hours about when most folks are leaving camp. A fire with sand poured on it is likely to have its sand rapidly stripped away. The heat is still there and soon you have a fire again. Unattended fires can rapidly make their way into the surrounding grass, up the hillside and--potentially--onto the homes in Shelter Cove.

As firefighters, we learn about the "Fire Triangle" which consists of heat, air, and fuel. Covering a fire with sand may remove air from the equation but, as I mentioned above, this may not be a reliable fix. Dousing a fire with copious amounts of water--which is plentiful along the coast--will remove both heat and air from the equation. It's a much surer fix.

Just remember that most fires aren't put out with just one quart of water! The average fire needs at least a standard bear-proof can full of water dumped on it. If you never thought of it--the bear can is a great bucket!

The Required Documents...

2008-10-31T16:26:00.000-07:00

All overnight use of the King Range Wilderness requires the possession of a free, self-issue permit from the Bureau of Land Management' (BLM).

These permits can be obtained either from a BLM office or from the brown metal boxes which are placed at each trailhead. When you arrive at a trailhead, the metal box is located near the sign with the big map of the King Range. Open the top of the box and there should be permits and pens inside. Fill one out with your name, destination, route, date, and vehicle license plate number.

"WHOA whoa. Why do you want my plate number?" We use the plate numbers to keep track of whose vehicles are in the parking lot and for how long... if your car is there a day after you were supposed to come out, there may be some cause for alarm. We may start asking other backpackers if they've seen you. We may send someone into the backcountry to look for you. It all depends on the circumstances. Having the plate number, though, gives us somewhere to start if somebody turns up missing.

The permit doesn't cost anything and you don't even have to talk to a ranger in order to get it.

We do look at them, though! Each one. Once your trip is done and we don't see your car sitting in the parking lot anymore, these become essential for our tracking of how popular the wilderness is.

Each permit is examined for the number of hikers and how many days they were in the wilderness. These are recorded and a total number of user-days is calculated. These calculations along with other observatiosn--such as those I make each year regarding campsite conditions--allow BLM to determine if the wilderness is being "loved to death", is unpopular and therefore should have less tax money spent on it, or is "just right".

Two staffed BLM offices have permits also, and can answer questions. One is the King Range Project Office, only twenty minutes' drive from Shelter Cove, at 768 Shelter Cove Road, in Whitethorn (M-F 8-4:30). The other is the BLM's Arcata Field Office, at 1695 Heindon Road in Arcata, CA.

Fill out your permit! The wilderness thanks you!

Keeping the Lost Coast Clean and Healthy

2008-10-31T16:24:00.000-07:00

There are no toilets along the Lost Coast Trail. Human waste should be buried at least 8" deep in wet sand or wet gravel below the high tide mark on the beach. Many visitors come to the Lost Coast with much experience backpacking in the Sierra, the Trinity Alps, or other mountain wildernesses. There, the ethic is "200' from water". I find it understandable, therefore, that many folks are surprised to learn that on the Lost Coast the ethic is "as close to the ocean as you can safely get".

There is controversy here. Once upon a time, the National Leave-No-Trace organization advocated this "intertidal" disposal of human waste. Since then, LNT has changed their position and no longer advocates this practice. Unfortunately for wilderness users, LNT has offered no alternative or replacement for their old policy. Coastal wilderness is very unique--there are few in the United States--and so perhaps the jury is still out. Perhaps LNT hopes that all wilderness visitors to the Lost Coast will pack everything out?

In my experience, intertidal burial is the best option for feces disposal. Packing it out would be great but I fear that very few people would actually do this.

The camp areas along the Lost Coast tend to be in the mouths of narrow, steep-walled gorges. Some of these are completely isolated at high tide. Campers may sit high and dry in their campsite but have few other options as far as "places to go" when the call of nature comes. I often tell people on the beach, "Time your squat with the low tide".

When desperate people try to find a place to defecate 200' from water, they wind up scrambling up loose and sometimes dangerous slopes to dig their hole in a semiarid, biologically inactive soil. Inevitably, they find that digging a hole in that rocky ground is nearly impossible and... a few days later the ranger comes along and finds toilet paper streamers in the bushes that need to be reburied.

Below this desperate searcher, there is an ocean full of biological activity. Though there really is no place to go at extreme high tide, at most tide levels there is a place to go that will be inundated sometime soon. At low tide the options are endless. The digging is comparatively easy in the sand. Even on rocky beaches, though, a suitable place can be found.

One night, before going to bed at Buck Creek, I dug my hole in the wet sand right below the camp. Immediately to my right was about two cubic yards of wet gravel in a pile. To my left was a half-buried boulder. I took note of the spot and also noted that the high tide would be 7.4 feet (pretty high) at 1:00am. The next morning at 8am, I went in search of my spot with a shovel. I intended, as part of my experiment, to dig for my poop and see how the tide had affected it.

The two-cubic-yard gravel pile was gone. The boulder that I had squatted beside was largely exposed. The sandy spot that I had dug my hole in, the night before, was all rocks. I poked around a little but I'm confident that everything that I put in that hole went out to sea. It went out to sea where the sea lions, seals, humpback whales, sharks, and fish are all defecating on a regular basis. It went out to sea where the chitons and mollusks, nature's scouring pads, are probably long since finished metabolizing my waste. May yours be metabolized in a similar fashion.

Protect your food! Protect the bears.

2008-10-31T16:20:00.000-07:00

"Hard-sided bear-proof cannisters" must be carried by every person spending a night in the King Range Wilderness. That includes me, the backcountry ranger. There is a potential $150 fine for each member of a party who is not carrying a can or is storing food or scented items outside of one.

There are definitely bears in the King Range. Indeed, you are likely to see bear tracks on the beach. There is a small canyon, between Shipman Creek and Big Flat, that almost always had bear tracks at its mouth, this summer. It's a small bear--probably a two-year old--and probably a cub of the large sow that lives near Big Flat. I expect that this small bear doesn't think of humans as a reliable food source, as her mother once did. This is why the bear can restriction is in place.

Thinking of hanging your food? Have a look at some of my photos of the Lost Coast. There are many camps that have no trees one could suitably hang food to keep it from bears. I saw three bear hangs this summer and none of them was high enough off of the ground to keep me from getting it. If I can get it, you can bet the bear will find a way.

Bears have a great sense of smell--they can probably tell if you have dessert planned at half-a-mile. Some people are afraid of bears. That's reasonable. They're a big animal with sharp teeth. I know of no incidents where a bear attacked a human on the Lost Coast--even humans wearing cherry lip balm seem to be safe. If you are confronted by a bear, keep you pack on (you look bigger), wave your arms, and shout. Make sure the bear knows that you are big and you will go down fighting. They'd rather go eat berries than mess with a human.

Bears may get food that is not properly stored. Raccoons are much more likely to get human food on the Lost Coast. I had raccoons in my camp at Big Flat every night that I stayed there this year. Like bears, raccoons have a great sense of smell and a great affinity for human food, toothpaste, and other smelly stuff. Also like bears, raccoons are effectively checked by a "hard-sided bear-proof cannister". Put everything in it before you go to sleep or head out on a day-hike. Put it somewhere away from your pack and tent. It may be batted around, but it will still contain your food when you return. What's more important, your backpack will still be a backpack when you get back. I have hauled the remains of a visitor's backpack out of the wilderness--remains that the raccoons had made useless in their efforts to liberate a Luna bar.

Is the bear cannister too heavy? I'll grant that the black, Garcia-type cans that are most readily available are a little heavy--but they work. The Bear Vault is another can that is somewhat lighter, also works pretty well, and is made of clear plastic. Pretty cool. Bear Vault also makes a half-size model, which is much lighter. This half-size model is what I carry for solo trips of up to three days. Beyond three days, I need a full-size. What can I say? I like to eat healthy.

You want to rent a can? There are a few places that the Garcia cans can be rented near the Lost Coast. The BLM office in Whitethorn has them for $5/can/trip. Remember that the office is only open M-F 8-4:30. If you are coming from a city that has a large outdoor goods store--like an REI--you can probably rent one at a more convenient place and bring it with you. Better yet--just go buy one. If this isn't your last backpacking trip, you will probably use it. Many California wildernesses now require these cans. They really never wear out and if you do a couple trips a year, one will pay for itself in saved rental fees in just a few years. Note also that, if you buy your own, you can get something lighter than a Garcia.

One final note on bear-proof containers. This note is about the Ursak or Ursack. The Ursack is a neat idea and much lighter than a Garcia bear can, for sure. Unfortunately, the Ursack does not fit the description of "hard-sided" and therefore do not fulfill the legal requirement. It's a bear-proof bag, designed to be used as part of a bear-hang. As I said above, there are few places to hang successfully on the Lost Coast. An Ursack unhung, though it will probably keep bears or raccoons from getting the food, can still be grasped by the animal. Don't consider burying it--both these animals are quite capable of digging even in the King Range's rocky soil. Even a raccoon can grasp an unsecured Ursack and carry it away into the woods, where you will never find it. You will never find it. The animal will eventually give up on it. Then it becomes litter. Please protect the animals and the wilderness. Don't litter the King Range with Ursacks.